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Cities

10 Dicembre 2024

Grottaglie, located in the heart of the province of Taranto, is internationally renowned as the “City of Ceramics.” This fascinating place is a perfect blend of artistic traditions, millennia of history, and breathtaking landscapes. Strolling through Grottaglie means immersing yourself in a unique atmosphere, where the art of ceramics merges with the warmth and authenticity of Apulia.

The Origins of Grottaglie: A Millennia-Old History

Grottaglie derives its name from the numerous caves that characterize its territory, used since prehistoric times as shelters and settlements. During the medieval period, the city became an important fief under the rule of the Bishops of Taranto, who fostered its cultural and economic growth.

The historic center still preserves traces of this glorious past, with architecture that showcases the influence of various civilizations, from the Byzantines to the Normans and the Angevins.

The Ceramics District: An Open-Air Museum

The Ceramics District is the vibrant heart of Grottaglie and its main tourist attraction. Here, ancient workshops carved into the rock house master ceramists who pass down a centuries-old craft. Each piece, molded and hand-decorated, tells the story and traditions of this city.

Among the most iconic symbols are the pumi, characteristic good-luck charms, and majolica ceramics adorned with traditional motifs. Don’t miss the opportunity to visit one of these workshops to observe the ceramic-making process up close and purchase unique pieces.

The Episcopio Castle and the Ceramics Museum

Overlooking the historic center, the Episcopio Castle is an imposing medieval fortress that now houses the Ceramics Museum. Here, visitors can admire a vast collection of artworks, ranging from historical artifacts to contemporary creations. The museum narrates the evolution of this artistic tradition that makes Grottaglie unique in the Italian landscape.

The Historic Center and Churches

Grottaglie’s historic center is a maze of white alleys, arches, and flower-filled courtyards, typical of Apulia. Among the main attractions is the Matrice Church, dedicated to the Virgin of Mount Carmel, featuring a towering bell tower and richly decorated interiors.

Just a short distance away, the Church of Saint Francis de Geronimo, the city’s patron saint, is a place of deep devotion and reflection.

Nature and Flavors

Grottaglie is nestled in a landscape of centuries-old olive groves and vineyards that produce outstanding products like extra virgin olive oil and Primitivo wine. The local cuisine reflects its rural traditions, with dishes such as fava beans and chicory, rustic focaccia, and almond-based desserts.

Places to Visit: Ceramics District, Episcopio Castle and Ceramics Museum Matrice, Church of the Virgin of Mount Carmel, Church of Saint Francis de Geronimo, De Felice Palace Gravine (rocky ravines) in the surrounding area.

Friday of Passion

Processione della Desolata

The Processione della Desolata marks the beginning of the Holy Week rites. It takes place on Friday of Passion, the Friday before Domenica delle Palme, and is organized by the historic Confraternita del Nome di Gesù, founded in the early 17th century.

The procession departs from Chiesa di San Mattia o della Madonna del Lume, a small 17th-century Baroque church located in the heart of the historic center, which was renovated and richly decorated in the 18th century. This place holds special significance as it was here that the young Jesuit San Francesco De Geronimo (1646-1716) trained.

-Date: April 11, 2025

-Time: 6:30 PM

-Location: Chiesa Matrice

Holy Thursday

Sepulchrum Domini ("Sìbburcu")

Giovedì Santo is dedicated to the exaltation of the Eucharist, with the preparation of the "Sepulchrum Domini", known in the local dialect as "Sìbburcu", in the city's main churches:

1. Chiesa Madre

2. Carmine

3. San Francesco De Geronimo

4. Paolotti

5. Madonna delle Grazie

6. Rosario 7. Santa Maria in Campitelli

On this day, the confratelli del Carmine, known as "Bbubbli Bbubbli", take part in a unique ritual, walking barefoot from church to church as a sign of penance and devotion.

-Date: April 17, 2025

-Time: 6:30 PM

-Location: Oratorio del Carmine

Good Friday

Processione dei Misteri

Venerdì Santo culminates in the solemn Processione dei Misteri, a centuries-old rite organized by the Confraternita del Purgatorio since the early 18th century. The procession departs from the Oratorio della Confraternita, located next to Chiesa Matrice, in the town's main square.

During the procession, artistic statues of the Passione are carried through the streets, along with various objects and symbols that recall the morte di Gesù Cristo. This event represents the climax of popular devotion during Settimana Santa, bringing the entire community together in an atmosphere of reflection and prayer.

-Date: April 18, 2025

-Time: 6:00 PM

-Location: Chiesa Matrice

CONFRATERNITA DEL NOME DI GESÙ

In Grottaglie, the Holy Week rites have largely preserved the various and evocative moments of the ancient popular tradition. The period of Lent, which was meant as a time of meditation, penance, and conversion in anticipation of the Easter event, was once experienced almost continuously through a series of initiatives and devotional practices, deeply rooted and well-documented in history. These included the Lenten sermons, penitential processions, and the general procession on Palm Sunday. Today, the Processione della Desolata and the most important Triduum rites, namely the "Sepolcri" and the "Misteri" of Holy Thursday and Good Friday, still survive, carrying an intense emotional and mystical charge. These ceremonies remain deeply moving and impactful due to their strong religious significance. The melancholic and ascetic figures of the "Bbubbli Bbubbli" (the confratelli del Carmine, who walk in pairs, forming the inscription "Decor Carmeli" on the back of their capes while wandering through the town and worshipping at the "sepolcro") transport the distracted and troubled mind of modern man to a time and atmosphere of subtle mysticism and distant spirituality.

The Processione dei Misteri, organized by the Confraternita del Purgatorio, has moved the people of Grottaglie since the 18th century, attracting crowds of faithful from nearby towns. Today, it still retains an aura of solemnity and deep mysticism. During the procession, the following papier-mâché statues, dating back to the early 19th century, are carried: Christ in the Garden, Christ at the Column, Jesus Crowned with Thorns, Jesus Bearing the Cross, Christ on the Cross. Additionally, the precious wooden statues of Christ in the "bara" (laid in the tomb) and the Addolorata are also carried. The statues of the "Misteri" are borne on the shoulders of the confratelli del Purgatorio and men dressed in black, accompanied by mourning women and a choir whose heartbreaking notes of ancient religious hymns, distinctly funereal, compel even the bystanders to reflect on the mystery of death, which is the prelude to salvation through resurrection.

CONFRATERNITA DEL CARMINE

Holy Thursday is dedicated to the exaltation of the Eucharist, with the preparation of the "Sepulchrum Domini" (still referred to in the local dialect as "Sìbburcu") in the town’s main churches: Chiesa Madre, Carmine, San Francesco De Geronimo, Paolotti, Madonna delle Grazie, Rosario, Santa Maria in Campitelli. These churches are "visited" by the confratelli del Carmine, known as "Bbubbli Bbubbli", who walk barefoot through the streets in a characteristic ritual, as a sign of penance and devotion. The rules of the confraternity were approved by Mons. Antonio d'Aquino in 1620. The Confraternita del Carmine is based in an elegant oratory, built in the early 17th century, located in front of the Chiesa del Carmine. This oratory houses numerous relics and artistic and religious artifacts.

CONFRATERNITA DEL PURGATORIO

Good Friday marks the culmination of devotion and the Passion rites, with the Processione dei Misteri, which has been organized since the early 18th century by the Confraternita del Purgatorio, founded on November 17, 1641, by D. Federico Monaco, with the approval of Mons. Tommaso Caracciolo.

The youngest of the Grottaglie confraternities continues to hold an annual procession, which retains its traditional solemnity and deeply moving popular participation. Its headquarters is located in the oratory, built in the main square of the town, next to the Chiesa Matrice, and it carefully preserves the artistic statues used in the procession, along with many objects and symbols of the Passion and Death of Our Lord Jesus Christ.

Particularly fascinating and expressive are the five papier-mâché statues, dating back to the first half of the 19th century. Even older and more valuable are the wooden statues of the Addolorata and the Cristo Morto, which rests in an intricately carved and decorated urn.

Cities Info

Comune di Grottaglie

T +39 099 56201

Polizia Muncipale

T +39 099 562 0224

Infopoint Turistico

Largo Maria Immacolata (all'interno del Castello Episcopio)

T +39 099 5620427

infopoint@comune.grottaglie.ta.it

www.comune.grottaglie.ta.it

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