the Black Christ

Cities

19 Dicembre 2024

Imagine yourself here, in Conversano, a city that reveals itself with every step through its narrow streets and historic squares. Let me guide you as we explore traces of an ancient past that coexists with modern life. Perched on a hill just a few kilometers from the sea, Conversano is a mosaic of stories and legends, art and faith, where every corner holds a secret waiting to be discovered. The roots of Conversano date back to antiquity, with evidence of human settlements from the Iron Age. Known in pre-Roman times as Norba, it was an important center of the Peucetian civilization. Its megalithic walls testify to the strategic importance of the city, which became the seat of a powerful county during the Norman period. The city's true development occurred under the Normans, when Conversano became an autonomous county ruled by the powerful Counts of Conversano. During this period, many of the city's iconic monuments were built, such as the Castle and the Cathedral, establishing it as a center of power and culture.

In the following centuries, under the rule of the Acquaviva d’Aragona family, Conversano experienced another period of splendor, marked by the construction of palaces, churches, and artworks that today make its historic center a true treasure trove of beauty.

Let’s begin our journey in the heart of the city, the Castle of the Counts Acquaviva d'Aragona. Its imposing walls, dating back to the time of Goffredo of Altavilla, tell stories of nobles and knights, battles and love. It was here that the legendary “Guercio delle Puglie”, Count Girolamo II d’Aragona, lived—a figure as fascinating as he was controversial, who left an indelible mark on Conversano’s memory.

Now, let me take you to the Cathedral of Santa Maria Assunta, a Romanesque masterpiece that rises majestically among the city streets. Step inside with me: its simple yet solemn interior holds centuries of prayers and hopes.

Let’s continue exploring Conversano’s wonders by visiting the Monastery of San Benedetto. This place has a unique charm: here, the abbesses were granted the rare privilege of wearing the “mitre,” a distinction reserved for very few, earning the monastery the title “Monstrum Apuliae.” It’s a corner of history that captivates, a place where time seems to stand still.

Conversano has so much to offer, from its churches filled with artistic treasures, like the Church of San Cosma e Damiano, to its medieval vistas and squares that host festivals and cultural events throughout the year.

Must-See Attractions: Castle of the Counts Acquaviva d'Aragona, Cathedral of Santa Maria Assunta, Monastery of San Benedetto, Church of San Cosma e Damiano, Civic Museum, Historic Center.

Good Friday

Processione del Cristo Nero

The Processione del Cristo Nero is one of the most emotional and spiritually intense moments of Conversano's Holy Week. This ancient ritual, characterized by deep popular devotion, centers around the striking Crucifix, known as Cristo Nero, kept in the 15th-century Chiesa di Santa Maria dell’Isola, about a kilometer from the town center.

The celebration begins on the evening of Holy Thursday, when the faithful go to the Monastero dell’Isola to participate in the ritual of the Kiss of Cristo Nero, a moment of reflection and prayer. The procession begins at 3:00 AM on Good Friday, after the solemn vigil celebrated by the Rector.

Accompanied by the soft sound of flute and drum, the procession moves in an atmosphere of reflection. The Cross is followed by faithful holding large torches, with a parade that includes floral decorations and the traditional lampari (lanterns). At the first light of dawn, the “Ninna Nanna”, a poignant song in the Conversano dialect, is sung while the procession proceeds slowly, with frequent stops allowing the faithful to kiss the Crucifix, placed on pillows covered with precious fabrics and adorned with flower garlands.

At 6:00 AM, the procession reaches the Chiesetta di San Rocco, where a prolonged stop takes place. From here on, the Cristo Nero is carried exclusively by the priests and later by the Bishop, who accompanies it to the Palazzo dell’Episcopio. The procession resumes at 11:00 AM, with the participation of the Tarsia-Mastronardi family, the guardians of the tradition, and concludes around 1:00 PM at Chiesa di Santa Maria dell’Isola, crossing Via Bari.

A particularly significant symbolic moment takes place in Piazza Castello, where the Rector celebrates the Blessing of the Sea, the Land, and the City, emphasizing the connection between faith and the territory.

-Date: April 18, 2025

-Time: 3:00 AM

-Location: Chiesa di Santa Maria dell’Isola

Good Friday

Processione dell’Addolorata

The Processione dell’Addolorata, scheduled for 10:30 AM on Good Friday, represents another important moment of Conversano's Holy Week. The statue of Our Lady of Sorrows, symbolizing the grief of Christ's death, departs from Chiesa del Carmine and travels through the town streets in an atmosphere of silence and reflection, accompanied by the faithful in prayer.

-Date: April 18, 2025

-Time: 10:30 AM

-Location: Chiesa del Carmine

Good Friday

Processione dei Misteri e del Santo Legno

At 4:00 PM, the evocative Processione dei Misteri e del Santo Legno takes place, involving all the confraternities of Conversano. The procession departs from the Chiesa della Passione, with the faithful, in traditional attire, accompanying the statues depicting the main moments of Christ’s Passion.

The statues include:

1. Cristo all’Orto

2. Cristo alla Colonna

3. Cristo flagellato

4. Cristo crocifisso

5. Cristo alla Canna

6. La “Cascata” (Cristo caduto sotto la Croce)

7. Cristo morto nella culla

8. La Sacra Sindone

The atmosphere is made even more intense by the presence of penitents, called “li pappamusci cu li trai”, who drag heavy crosses as an act of devotion and penance. The procession ends with the statue of Addolorata, accompanied by the poignant notes of funeral marches performed by the town’s band.

-Date: April 18, 2025

-Time: 4:00 PM

-Location: Chiesa della Passione