Cities

the TI TE'

01 Novembre 2024

Here you are MOLFETTA (BA), cut in stone, made of sharp edges like a diamond, born flush with old walls, tiny and complicated. You have arrived in a labyrinth of streets, in the meander of houses of our old town, you are in the lock of these walls. You are the key to enter the city through the historic gate of Via Piazza. Turn your gaze, beyond the rooftops, towards the sea that bathes the stone beyond the green windows, the famous Green Molfetta shutters, where our two silent and thinking towers stand out, one a bell tower and the other a lookout tower.
 

These are the towers of the Cathedral of San Corrado, built between the 12th and 13th centuries with the main architectural features of the Apulian Romanesque style. Cross Piazza Municipio, which leads to the streets without arrival, tunnels carved into the soft, light-coloured stone on which the reflections of the sea arrive.
 

Gateway to the east swallows us all, bathes these wayfarers in dreams. Walls of white and rosy square protect the curious eyes from the sea and you unsuspecting passers-by plunge your hearts where the gaze dare not look choose to lift your spirits, choose to fly or like kites carried by the wind like thoughts whispered to the waves.
 

Look at the mother of each one's time. A hole in the heart that hides history, everyone's home, a glimpse of the future, of our past preserves memory a precise point, open and deep our PULO is one and the centre of our world. The dolina del Pulo di Molfetta, a karst sinkhole inhabited since the Neolithic period, where two ‘idols were recently found, is one of the most important natural monuments visible along the stretch of coastline in the north of Bari.
 

It is home to an example of industrial archaeology as evidenced by the nitrate-rich caves and the presence of the most important nitriera of the kingdom of Naples and the Bourbons. Come to Molfetta and try to enter where music mixes with the waves and stone is bathed in light, in a history of art, tears, faces, stones and the sea.
 

Where words hidden between interstices of walls, fight the darkness of world history, is the birthplace of Gaetano Salvemini. Light footsteps but deep furrows, of a Man and a Saint who taught a concrete Peace by walking beside us here, Don Tonino Bello. Feel the history, listen to the murmur of years past that mark the face with hard hands of earth, stop here, stop now, in front of the Torrione that has been looking out over the sea since 1512. The Torrione Passari, initially a cannon house, later to become a watchtower, is now world-famous as a precious casket of contemporary art exhibitions.
 

And then there are the events of the Easter tradition, with the processional rites of Holy Week or the suggestive sea festival for the Patron Saint's Feast in September.
 

Choose to dream prisoners of ecstasy to be stone embraced by the sea, to be heart embracing a dream. Stop now and let yourself be lulled by the sweet melody of those who have always sung with the sea.
 

Molfetta is waiting for you.
 

Places to visit: Cathedral of San Corrado, Cathedral, Old Town, Diocesan Museum, Archaeological Museum, Pulo, Torrione Passari, Templar Hall, Basilica ‘Madonna dei Martiri’ with annexed Crusader Hospital, Fish Market.
 

 

Text by: Corrado La Grasta
Photos by: Vincenzo De Pinto /  Molfetta Photographers Association

 

 

 

 

 

Ash Wednesday



The Procession of the Cross


Ash Wednesday marks the official start of the rites of Holy Week in Molfetta, with the solemn Procession of the Cross, a moment charged with spirituality and tradition.

The procession comes to life at the stroke of midnight between Shrove Tuesday and the first day of Lent, starting from the Church of Purgatory and accompanied by the 33 slow tolls of the Cathedral bell, symbolising the years of Christ.

A large cross, carried by a hooded brother of the Archconfraternity of the Black Sack Death, is flanked by two brothers with lanterns. The procession passes through the historical streets of the city to Calvary, where there is a short homily and blessing by the Spiritual Father, before returning to Purgatory.

The procession is opened by a musical quartet performing an ancient oriental melody, characterised by the rhythm of the drum, the beats of the bass drum and the sound of the flute. The final blasts of the trumpet, known as the ‘ti-tè’, provide a unique and evocative atmosphere.


-Date: 5 March 2025
-Time: 00:01
-Location: Purgatory Church, Molfetta
 

 

 


Passion Friday

 

The Procession of the Blessed Virgin of Sorrows

 

On Passion Friday, which precedes Palm Sunday, the protagonist is the Procession of the Blessed Virgin of Sorrows, a rite of intense emotional and religious participation.

At 3.15 p.m., from the Church of Purgatory, the procession opens with the appearance of the statue of Our Lady of Sorrows, dressed in black and with a dagger thrust into her chest, a symbol of maternal sorrow. The simulacrum, carried on the shoulders of the brothers of theArciconfraternita della Morte dal Sacco Nero, moves to the rhythm of the notes of ‘La Sventurata’, played by the town band.

The procession passes through the historical centre of Molfetta and ends at midnight, offering the faithful and visitors an experience of deep devotion.

-Date: 11 April 2025
-Time: 3:15 p.m.
-Location: Purgatory Church, Molfetta

 

 

 


Good Friday


The Procession of the Five Mysteries


One of the oldest and most evocative moments of Holy Week in Molfetta, the Procession of the Five Mysteries takes place on Good Friday. Organised by theArciconfraternita di Santo Stefano, the procession starts at 03:30 in the morning from the Church of Santo Stefano and winds through the streets of the old town.

The five wooden statues, dating back to the 16th century, represent the Sorrowful Mysteries:

1. Christ in the Garden of Olives
2. The Flagellation
3. Ecce Homo
4. Christ at Calvary
5. Dead Christ

The statues, carried on the shoulders of the brethren, advance to the rhythm of the funeral marches, creating a solemn and reflective atmosphere.

-Date: 18 April 2025
-Time: 03:30
-Location: Church of Santo Stefano, Molfetta

 

 

 



Holy Saturday

 


The Procession of Pieta


Holy Saturday is dedicated to the Procession of the Pieta, a rite of great emotional impact. The statues, papier-mâché masterpieces by sculptor Giulio Cozzoli, depict the protagonists of the Passion:

1.  St Peter
2.  The Veronica
3.  Mary of Cleophas, with burial oils
4.  Mary of Salome, with the crown of thorns
5.  Mary Magdalene
6.  St John, the beloved disciple
7.  The Pietà (1908), the most touching moment of the procession

The procession departs from the Church of the Purgatory at 11.15 a.m. and passes through the streets of Molfetta, accompanied by the profound participation of the faithful and brethren.

-Date: 19 April 2025
-Time: 11:15 a.m.
-Location: Purgatory Church, Molfetta

 

 

 

Ash Wednesday / 5 March 2025

• MOLFETTA / Processione della Croce / Chiesa del Purgatorio / at 12:01 a.m.
organized by the Arciconfraternita della Morte dal Sacco Nero

 

Passion Friday / 11 April 2025

• MOLFETTA / Processione della B.V. Addolorata / Chiesa del Purgatorio / at 3:15 p.m.

 

Good Friday / 18 April 2025

• MOLFETTA / Processione dei Cinque Misteri / Chiesa di S. Stefano / at 3:30 a.m.

 

Holy Saturday / 19 April 2025

• MOLFETTA / Processione della Pietà / Chiesa del Purgatorio / at 11:15 a.m.

 

 

ARCICONFRATERNITA DELLA MORTE DAL SACCO NERO

 

The Arciconfraternita della Morte dal Sacco Nero (Archconfraternity of Death, or of the Black Sack), was founded on April 26, 1613, during the episcopate of Monsignor Bovio. However, on January 28, 1614, it was affiliated with the mother Archconfraternity of St. Mary of Prayer and Death in Rome.

 

Only members of certain social classes could join this confraternity. Its rules explicitly stated that "not everyone should be accepted indiscriminately; only those of excellent character, civil standing, or at least artisans would be admitted. Otherwise, admission would be denied."

 

Contrary to its original elite nature, the Archconfraternity is now mainly composed of artisans, laborers, merchants, sailors, farmers, as well as professionals and employees. From its origin, the purpose of this brotherhood has been to offer prayers for the deceased and to provide free Christian burial for the poor, "for the love of God." This goal is still actively pursued through suffrages.

 

To this original purpose has been added a votive focus by the confraternity members on the devotion to Mary Magdalene, Our Lady of Sorrows, and the Sorrowful Mysteries. Over time, devotion has shifted primarily to the veneration of Our Lady of Sorrows and the Pietà. The sorrows of the Blessed Virgin Mary continue to inspire the Christian commitment of the brothers of the Black Sack.

 

 

 

 

ARCICONFRATERNITA DI SANTO STEFANO DAL SACCO ROSSO

 

The Arciconfraternita della Morte dal Sacco Rosso (Archconfraternity of St. Stephen of the Red Sack), since its founding in the late Middle Ages, has been based in the small church bearing the same name, located a short distance from the old town. In 1586, it was affiliated with the Archconfraternity of the Most Holy Trinity of Pilgrims and Convalescents in Rome, but only in 1764 did it adopt its first written statute, definitively approved by Ferdinand IV of Bourbon. However, the confraternity achieved legal recognition as an Ecclesiastical Entity with the Royal Decree of April 20, 1936.

 

The fellowship has St. Stephen as its patron and an amphora filled with stones crowned by a crown as its symbol.

 

The motto that guides the confraternity is Dulcis et nomine digni (sweet and worthy of the name), while its emblem includes the red sack with a hood of the same color, along with a brown cord and gloves. All members wear, beneath the sack, a dark-colored suit with a tie and white shirt. The use of the red hat, which today completes the confraternity attire, hanging folded in the shape of a bicorne on the left side, was authorized by Royal Decree in 1856.

 

In addition to organizing religious activities that culminate in the Procession of the Five Mysteries on Good Friday, the Archconfraternity has, since its origins, demonstrated a strong charitable commitment through the charity initiative, Opera Bontà di S. Stefano.

Molfetta ‘s Lenten processions are imbued with a timeless charm, and the music that accompanies them amplifies the sense of spirituality and yearning. Among the many marches performed during these rites, one of the most evocative is U'conzasiegge, inspired by the plaintive calls of the chair repairman. Composed in 1857 by maestro Vincenzo Valente, this heartbreaking march penetrates the soul, still accompanying the evocative night procession of the dead Christ, when the silence of the city is broken only by the sound of notes that seem to weep.
 

Valente himself, with his mastery, gave Molfetta another masterpiece, Lo sventurato, a funeral march composed in 1888. Its solemn rhythm resounds during the Passion Friday procession of the Blessed Virgin of Sorrows, drawing the listener into a journey of deep emotion.
 

Other local composers have also left their mark on the Lenten musical tradition. Saverio Calò, in 1897, composed Dolor, a march that is performed at the moment when the statue of the Pietà leaves the Purgatory Church on Holy Saturday. A unique moment, where pain takes on sonorous form and accompanies the community in a rite that smacks of eternity.
 

The great names of classical music are not missing: the famous Stabat Mater by Gioacchino Rossini resounds in the most intense moments, such as the epilogue of the procession of the Blessed Virgin of Sorrows or the return of the statue of the Pieta. It is a universal prayer in notes, combining faith and beauty.
 

And finally, the Palmieri March, which accompanies the return of the statue of the dead Christ on the cross. Its notes, solemn and melancholic, seem to seal the most sacred moment of these ancient rites.
 

But there is a melody that more than any other guards the mystery of Molfetta: the Ti tè. Of an unknown author, it is a tune that rises above time and space. Described by many as a ‘lament of oriental origin’, this poignant tune, performed by flute, trumpet, drum and bass drum, captures the essence of a devotion that has been lost over the centuries.
 

Its beauty even enchanted maestro Riccardo Muti, who requested the sheet music, recognising in those notes the echo of a deep, almost mystical spirituality.
 

Every march, every note, every musical breath is a bridge between the divine and the human, between the past and the present. It is the voice of a people that, through music, continues to tell of its faith, its pain and its hope.

 

 

PS: In the photo above, in 1947, the Band Complex of the City of Molfetta conducted by Maestro Angelo Inglese.


 

The gastronomy of Molfetta during the Easter period is a journey into authentic flavours, steeped in traditions that tell the story and culture of this Apulian town overlooking the sea. Easter recipes are not only a pleasure for the palate, but also a way to pass on stories of faith, community and sharing.
 

Among the Molfettesi's favourite delicacies is the pizzarello, a simple and tasty sandwich stuffed with tuna and extra virgin olive oil. This small culinary masterpiece is linked to a special tradition: it is eaten on Holy Thursday during the visit to the tombs. In ancient times, the priors of the confraternities offered pizzarelli to the brethren following the processions, a gesture of refreshment and sharing that is still handed down today.
 

Another unfailing dish is the molfettese calzone pasquale. This savoury dough, filled with cod, long onion, cauliflower, olives, cherry tomatoes and extra virgin olive oil, is traditionally prepared on Holy Wednesday to mark the beginning of Lent. The aroma wafting from the ovens during this preparation is a sign that Easter is near.
 

In the Easter gastronomy of Molfetta, another typical dish not to be missed is ciambotto, a poor but richly flavoured fish soup prepared with the catch of the day. This dish tells of the ancient bond between the people of Molfetta and the sea, a relationship of sacrifice and devotion. The ciambotto molfettese is cooked with scorpion fish, tracina, cuttlefish, mussels and prawns, all flavoured with fresh tomatoes, garlic, parsley and a drizzle of extra virgin olive oil.
 

Traditionally, ciambotto was eaten on Good Friday, a day of fasting and abstinence from meat, but today it has become a symbol of Apulian Easter cuisine, appreciated by locals and visitors alike. The intense flavour of the sea and the simplicity of the ingredients make this soup an irresistible dish for those who wish to discover the true traditional cuisine of Molfetta.
 

And then there are the desserts, the undisputed protagonists of the festival. The most iconic is the scarcella, or as it is affectionately called by the locals, scarcedde. This Apulian Easter cake is a feast for the eyes and palate: a heart-shaped short pastry base covered in icing and decorated with chocolate eggs or coloured pralines. The scarcella can be plain or filled with jam or almond paste, depending on the family recipe.
 

In Molfetta, Easter is much more than a religious celebration: it is a moment of conviviality and rediscovery of one's roots. Every dish tells a story, every flavour evokes a memory.
 

Easter gastronomy thus becomes a universal language, capable of uniting generations and celebrating the beauty of tradition.


 

Cities Info

Municipality of Molfetta

T + 39 080 995 6226

 

Municipal Police

T + 39 080 397 1014

 

Tourist Info Point

Via Piazza, 27

T +39 351 986 9433

info.molfetta@viaggiareinpuglia.it

 

www.comune.molfetta.ba.it